Risotto--without the Rice?

“Risotto” with Barley with Dill and Sesame

I hope you enjoy this recipe, which uses the same technique as in traditional risotto—the coating of the grain with oil and the addition of warm stock slowly to create a rich and creamy texture—but adds a new twist by adding dill and using tahini instead of the usual butter and cheese.

1 cup Pearl Barley, pan toasted until golden brown
4-5 cups vegetable stock
2 cloves garlic, pressed
½ chopped large onion
2-3 TB. olive oil
4-5 small sweet carrots
2-3 TB. finely chopped fresh dill
2-3 TB. Sesame Tahini
Lemon juice
Salt
Pepper

In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, cook the garlic and onions in the olive oil until translucent. Add toasted barley, stir with a wooden spoon, coating each grain with the oil. Add WARM veggie stock 1 cup at a time, stirring between each addition until the liquid is absorbed. Continue until barley is cooked, about 30-45 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

In separate pan, sauté carrots and scallions in a small amount of oil until caramelized but still vibrant in color, texture and taste. Add salt if needed.

Add carrot/scallion mixture to barley just after it is done and the heat is turned off. Add chopped dill and tahini. Mix thoroughly.

Place finished risotto on a plate and drizzle fresh squeezed lemon juice and little olive oil.

For extra flavor and texture: Add ½ cup toasted sunflower seeds to risotto when adding the carrots, scallions and dill.




Think Rodgers and Astaire. Nichols and May. Siskel and Ebert? Famous pairs whom, when I really think about them, combine two somewhat odd participants.  On there own-- good, but when combined--  powerfully magical. To this list I would like to suggest a “culinary” nominee: a grain I would refer to as rice's talented yet unappreciated "understudy"-- barley-- and the ubiquitous roadside "weed", strangely hardy yet at the same time delicately structured herb known as dill. Eaten separately, barley and dill do not exactly “float my boat” as they say. Barley seems pale and boring--dill, a frilly herb too frequently used to freshen boring poached salmon dish or add as a flavor to a cucumber turned soggy pickle. But mingled together their special chemistry shines.This pairing is one of my surely one of my favorites—it calls my name most clearly in the spring when I craving food that feels “green” in my mouth and leaves me full yet refreshed.

Honestly, I can’t take all the kudos for this wonderful discovery. I  reluctantly have to give a teensy bit of credit to a former boyfriend (who dumped me during a very rough period of my life—a long story) but who was the first to introduce me to this flavor combo. Alas, love was fleeting, but many a good recipe "has legs"--I have over the years, tweeked it here and there, but it has stood the test of time-- it continues to please me to this day. I happily share it with my clients, friends and family, who all “fall in love at first bite”  just as I did when I first discovered it's unexpected charms.

Speaking of times past, here is a short history lesson: Barley is an ancient grain that has survived and thrived and still holds a valuable place in our modern diet. Abundant in the Fertile Crescent, scholars claim that it’s the first domesticated grain. The Egyptians as well as the Greeks went gaga over it, calling it the food of gladiators. In Tibet it has been a staple food for centuries and is still used to create flour used in everyday meals. The prophet Mohamed sang it’s praises and prescribed it for many ailments. Losing out the potato in popularity in Europe in the 19th century, it is still is used today as animal fodder, the base for malt used in beer, and certain “health” food recipes.

Health Tip: Interestingly--barley contains as much protein as wheat but in a form that is more digestible, and has a special attribute: the ability to regulating blood sugar much more successfully than other grains—it’s especially helpful for diabetics and people with low blood sugar. Either served hot as a “risotto” or cold as a salad on a hot summer day, both versions are equally wonderful.

Summer Times Two

Since relocating to California back the late 80’s I discovered Japanese as well as Thai cuisine—now both rank as two my favorite cuisines. I recently had the very good fortune to discover a small but impressive restaurant that features and artfully combines elements of both--both Japanese and Thai cuisines. It’s called Summer Summer. It’s located at the corner of 59th Street and Hollis in Emeryville, CA.

First off--- I love it’s unconventional location: it’s nestled in a corner of a large office building on a very busy bus and car route—it’s entrance, down a short set of stairs, slightly below street level. Despite it’s proximity to the street, the interior feels cozy, safe and rather quiet.  The large windows that line the entire wall abutting the street provide the diner with a wonderful moving portrait –an ever changing composition of passing figures, colors and light—including great people watching opportunities--especially appreciated when I have dined without the benefit of a companion.  The decor is at once fun, unpretentiously cool, edgy and elegant--an interesting marriage of minimal furnishings that could easily “send a chill” but are strongly balanced by an array of natural textures and a calming palate of warm earthy tones. A wonderful example of this happy union occurs at the far end of the long narrow dining room, a space that could become dark and uninviting. Instead, an interesting collection of loose silk throw pillows form a soft, horizontal rainbow of warm muted tones draws your eye and lures you towards it’s offer of casual yet luxurious comfort. Directly above is a richly textural wall mosaic created by pieces of roughly cut wood, end-grain showing, which are intermittently covered in gold leaf, only partially adhered. When I was there I witnessed something I found so simple but very magical-- the wall became an unexpected kinetic sculpture as the light and glittery edges of the unattached gold leaf randomly fluttering with the shifting air currents created by a nearby heating duct. A large-scale vintage Thai movie poster, over sized lights, exposed painted black ceiling and natural colored concrete all add glamour and wit. 

Summer Summer’s diverse menu echoes the surroundings.  Flavors and textures from both cultures are woven through the menu and given wonderful twists. For example, the Tuna Sesame Salad and sashimi have Thai flavors such as lemongrass, lime and tamarind. I found the results both fun and satisfying. They offer seven different roll and wraps-- all have interesting combinations of textures and flavors and in the cases of the Soy Paer Sashimi Rolls, employ tofu instead of the usual nori as the “paper” holding the contents together. As a fan of curry I have tried several of these dishes and found them to be rich, well balanced and possessing a wonderful depth of flavor. Many can be made vegetarian by simply ordering a version with tofu. I love rich --Summer Summers offers a  most unusual and delicious brown/black rice rice  as well as standard white. Summer Summer also has a grill and sushi bar. The most expensive item on the menu is the Garlic Cubed Mignon, a filet mignon that is cubed and served with Sriracha mayo sauce is approximately $20.00

Open Sesame

Easy Creamy Toasted Sesame Sauce for Rice, Pasta or Salad, etc.

A great recipe for a very simple and versatile sauce!


Mayonnaise- ½  cup. Use homemade or store bought. I prefer Trader Joe’s Real Mayo
Toasted Sesame Oil-20 Drops
Lemon Juice ½ -1 fresh whole lemon squeezed without pits
Soy Sauce-1 teaspoon
Tahini-2 teaspoons
Chili Powder –1/4 teaspoon

Add all ingredients together and stir.
Add a small amount of water to thin if necessary.
Adjust amounts of ingredients to suite your fancy.


Remember to sample on the rice, pasta, salad, etc. you will be serving this sauce on before serving to adjust for seasonings and consistency.

Open Sesame

Honestly, I’ve lost track of just how many times I have been asked by friends and clients who are impressed with my passionate commitment i.e. obsession with great food, and who are dying to know which products I recommend and how I cook with them at home for my daughter and myself. They know and yes, I unashamedly admit, that I have eaten my way through many gourmet stores, excitedly tasting samples of breads, oils, jams, fruits, etc. painstakingly cut and, more times than not, minced up (due to their cost), skewered with tiny toothpicks and waiting to be popped into my waiting mouth. Yum.

With enthusiasm that rivals that of the actual act of eating, I shyly confess that I love the thrill of the hunt—the satisfaction of sniffing out and discovering these tasty treasures strategically placed around my local gourmet food store. I have allowed myself to “feast” on these mini examples of delectible artisanal goods we are blessed with in the Bay Area guilt-free because, as you might have guessed -- I have on many occasions happily emptied my pockets (much to my former husband’s dismay) and freely purchased the many intriguing products lining the shelves with, do I need really need to say- total disregard for their price or practical use. I know one day I invent or discover a recipe that demands the cream of anchovy with toasted hazelnut spread I have keep in my cupboard for the last 3 years.

Furthermore, I confess that I indulge my food hunting instincts in less than---well---noble surroundings.

Recently, on another rainy February day, I left my house on a quest for toothpaste and hair detangler (a clever pretense in retrospect) I “surprised” myself by inexplicable drawn to what seemed at the time the uninhabited hinterlands of the new CVS (formerly Long’s Drugstore) at the shopping mall at 51st and Broadway. There I stood in the back area of the store near the paper goods feeling lost and lonely when suddenly, I felt strangely excited.

“Yes, yes, I said to myself, I have had felt this heady feeling before- it’s that tingling, that energy that courses through my body when the foodie bloodhound in me picks up the scent of a gourmet treat tantalizing near. But how, I asked myself, could this be happening in of all places-- CVS??”

Knowing myself I knew better than to try fight  “the feeling” off I went with my umbrella happily wagging behind me, hot on the trail of something I knew deep in the pit of my stomach, just had to be special.

Surrendering fully, I completely stopped thinking and let my “nose” lead the way. Past the hot curlers, aisles of cleaning products, colorful work-out clothing I trotted when suddenly I felt a chill run up and down my spine. My ears perked up, my heart was pounding and my nose twitched ever so slightly.

I turned the corner and found hidden in the deep recesses of this utilitarian and somewhat sterile store a veritable treasure trove of interesting food!

As they say in France, Who nous???

Down an eerily empty aisle of neatly displayed groceries I flew, discovering shelf after shelf of unexpected goodies including some exciting ethnic offerings. I did a quick overview tour and then settled down to slowly peruse my thrilling new found food cache.

Almost immediately the “stop shopping” ping pong match began to take place in my head-- and images of my overflowing cupboards full of strange condiments and weirdly shaped stale pasta that I couldn’t encourage even my best friends to sample came rushing into my brain. Quickly I countered—“Okay, okay, I’ll just look” brilliantly adding, “I know I have less than an hour because I had to pick up my daughter at 2:50 from school”.  Just enough time to look but not do significant damage to my quickly shrinking bank account.

Feeling strong and responsible, I calmly regained my composure, took a deep breath and allowed myself to plunge head first into my self-appointed task. Painstakingly I attempted to examine and to memorize each and every item on the shelves of the entire food section just in case I might need it  in the future—didn’t I see a recipe last week that called for a particular kind of mustard—smoked—the Bulgarian variety?

Suddenly a bottle seemed to leap off the shelf and into my waiting hands. No, not a jar of strange and probably inedible mustard, but , oh joy, a bottle of toasted sesame oil! Not just sesame oil, the toasted version!!!!

Could it be the good stuff?

I glanced up and down both sides of the aisle to make sure I wasn’t being noticed as I quietly screwed the top off. Glancing around once again I used my impeccably clean fingernail to illegally pry the little white seal from the top of the bottle. After all, I consider it was my duty as a chef to sniff for freshness a product that can easily be flavorless or worse, rancid. All this sneaky stuff was worth it--I was rewarded with an aroma I know and love so very much—sinfully rich, wonderfully nutty and deeply exotic. Once, again, I inhaled deeply. No mistake. My work was done. I tightened the cap, added it to my basket, let out a quite “yip” I was sure no one would hear and quickly padded my way to the nearest register.

Post Script: A store clerk who had been stocking the shelves one aisle over stared as I passed by. I ignored her, held my head high and headed to my car to pick up my daughter and then home to make one of my favorite recipes.

Chef’s Note: Although I enjoyed this product, for best results please considered purchasing Eden Select Toasted Sesame Oil. It is of the highest quality and well worth a special trip to the Berkeley Bowl. You can also purchase online at www.edenfoods.com