Called “the rose of the sea,” all tuna was so named because of the unusual and beautiful color of its flesh-- a lovely soft pink rather than the usual white. On a trip to Monterey Bay Aquarium last year I identified a live tuna swimming amongst the many fishes in a large tank. My first thought was “Good thing it’s what’s on the inside that counts because compared to it’s fabulously showy aquatic companions, this was a very homely fish”. I spent time get acquainted with this unusual warm-blooded aquatic animal that had for so long been a staple in my diet. I found myself feeling awful. Despite many years of tuna consumption, this impressive fish, fresh, alive, surrounded by sea water instead of a house of tin, seemed to me like a total stranger.
Canned tuna and I go way back--I have loved it since I was a tot. I credit some this to my childhood friend Raisy. We called her “Crazy Raisy” for lots of reasons too numerous to explain. But for me this moniker seemed infinitely appropriate because of one fact: Raisy ate tuna every single day for lunch for the entire time I knew her, grades K-8, a fact I found at once fascinating and revolting. But I must also give her credit. Looking back at either her morning laziness or her relentless devotion, observing her eating this same food day after day left a lasting impression on me. Maybe it was the ton of creamy mayo (to the point that came oozing out over the edges of the bread) her mother slathered on, or perhaps the anemic sliced white balloon bread my mother never allowed to pass my lips. Although I hated to admit, I craved those sandwiches, repulsed and at the same time illogically smitten. My solution---to negotiate a sandwich trade---- were always quickly rebuffed. She might have been nut but when it came to giving away her favorite food she was no fool. I was always completely crushed.
Over the course of many years my love for tuna has remained static. My recipes, fortunately, have not. One of my early favorite concoctions is one I discovered in 6th grade. It was “cooked” during lunch period with ingredients I found in my own lunch box. I started with the pre-made spread my mother had lovingly supplied me. My brilliant addition to this recipe was a thick stratum of crumbled potato chips (an ingredient that was borrowed from what supposed to be my 4 o’clock snack) as the middle layer hidden between fish on either side. A single leaf of crunchy iceberg lettuce was added and my masterpiece complete. I didn’t care that the shattered chips moved their up through the buffer of tuna salad and cut the roof of my mouth when I bit into it. The inclusion of this odd addition to my original duo of ingredients struck me at the time as incredibly decadent and positively sinful. The whole of this recipe was so much more than the sum if it’s parts and to my 10 year old mind, they made mouth magic together. The potato chips adding needed texture and also kicked up the flavor with their contribution of even more salt and grease to what was already a fairly rich and salty spread. Mom—if you are reading this which I am sure you are- I apologize for doctoring your recipe. Yes, your darling was a tuna fish sandwich two-timer — but Mom, it tasted so damn great!
More experimentation was to follow. After I became bored with the potato chip version so treasured in my youth I tried many variations on the theme with the usual suspects--onions, different mayonnaises (including homemade), sprouts, and many different mustards, which I like with fish. All had their charms, but I decided I needed to go back to basics. I knew that the ingredient all by itself, straight out the can had to taste great and was key to my recipe’s success. My mission became clear. I was a quest for the best canned tuna on the market.
My experiments with differing brands and styles—in water, in oil, white, chuck light, etc, etc., yielded very spotty results. Many cans, whose attractive labels promised lovely results, were very disappointing. Most, when opened, contained watery brown mush that was either sour or too fishy or was totally flavorless that even the most famished feline would refuse. Others revealed dry, white and lifeless chunks of something that I suppose was once edible but that looked and tasted more inorganic, akin to pressed styrofoam.
Finally I decided to try the “adult tuna”-- the imported gourmet Spanish version packed in oil and sold in large open containers behind the deli counter. I had heard it was great and it was indeed, at a whole different level— rich and alive with flavor with a marvelous flaky yet firm texture. I was infatuated. I wanted to eat it everyday though I knew down in my heart that it was special -- too special an ingredient to make into salad and include in my or my kid’s lunch bag. Reluctantly I stored it in my ingredient memory bank, deciding that it was best reserved for use in my homemade salad nicoise or a pasta dish with tuna and capers.
An alternative that was of the same quality but was more practical for daily use had to be out there. I continued to search when at last my effort rewarded in a most unexpected way. One day when I was shopping for dinner I bumped into a food demonstration using canned tuna. It was presented by an actual fisherman--this was his line of canned tuna called Pacific Fleet. He informed that his boats catches and uses younger tuna than other canneries. I tried it and was instantly impressed. This certainly makes a huge difference as far as the taste, which is a lot fresher, and the texture, which is so wonderfully dense. I brought it home and experimented. It is so meaty that even though it’s high priced, I get a lot more out of every can; it’s worth the extra few dollars. I introduced my fussy nine year old to it and now we fight over it. After I introduced it to a friend of mine last year. she told me that she started to hate me only because she now can’t eat any other brand, consumes the entire can in one sitting and spends way too much of her time seeking it out and stocking up.
If you are interested in finding out more about the connection between mercury and tuna, please check out this site: www.mercuryfacts.org as well as other sources on the net.
Tuna Salad with Potatoes and Scallions
The same only….different. A slightly more grown-up version of my childhood favorite: I have substituted a delicious and simple oil and vinegar dressing in place of the usual mayo dressing. Although there are three steps in this recipe: cooking the potatoes, making the vinaigrette and then mixing it with the tuna, all can be completed simultaneously. Use as a sandwich filling on toasted bread or on top of your favorite green salad. This recipe is enough for 1 serving.
Step 1:
1 russet potato
¼ cup vegetable oil
salt and pepper
Cut a russet potato into about ½ in cubes (I leave the skins on) and place in shallow pot with just enough water to cover seasoned with salt. Bring to a boil and quickly turn off the heat. Let the potatoes sit in the hot water for one minute and then drain thoroughly. Heat a fry pan with flavorless oil and add the potatoes in one layer. Resist urge to shake pan—let the pieces develop a crispy crust. After about 3 minutes gently lift a potato piece to check for color. When they are light brownish gently flip them over. Cook until other side is browned. Remove from pan and let cool.
Step 2:
½ can tuna
¼ cup chopped scallions
While potatoes are cooking open tuna can and drain can juice. Do not rinse. Remove tuna and place in medium bowl and break apart with fork leaving some chunky pieces. Add scallions and mix. Add cooled potatoes and gently stir.
Simple Dressing
½ good quality olive oil
¼ cup good quality red wine vinegar
2 TB Dijon mustard
Salt and pepper to taste
Mix all ingredients in a jar with lid and shake. Add to tuna-potato salad one tablespoon at time until tuna potato mixture is moist but not swimming in dressing. Store the rest in the fridge for a few days. Bring up to room temperature before using.
